1997 Penfolds Grange Shiraz

First the fruit - ripe blackberries/blackcurrant reduction, laced with spices – notably fennel and anise. Then a sprinkle of dark chocolate and cocoa-powder. Conceded, the presence of an ever-so-subtle yet complexing higher-tone mahogany/piano-polish/ lacquer – no doubt derived from the earth, not oak. A trepidant tension unfolds – youthful fruitiness wrestling an inky and dense powerhouse.

The fruit profile is a delight, oak playing no role in the aromatics. Shiraz, unadulterated! The descriptors need to be coaxed from the glass with a gentle swirl. Fruits of the forest are first to emerge, berry conserve, strawberry flan and rhubarb tart. There is a hit of confectionary, reminiscent of red glace cherries. Savoury notes include German Blutwurst spiced sausage, pan scrapings from roast lamb and salt cured beef with black peppercorns. Ferric notes of iron filings and whetstone swarf round out an impressive showing.

True to form, the palate is quite savoury. Japanese nori paper and olive brine offer a very morish umami nuance. Fresh blueberry and mulberry leaf anchor the core of the mid-palate. Exotic spices adding intrigue, Alleppey turmeric, toasted cumin, pimento.  The tannins are very tactile, comparable to Dutch cocoa. A classic St Henri that will reward extended time in the cellar.